7-Kerbala

Bismillah hir Rahman nir Rahim

As Kerbala approaches, the nerves set in. After walking for 2 to 3 days straight, the anticipation of meeting your beloved Imam builds with each step you take forward.  I am arriving at your place of rest, oh Aba Abdillah, broken, tired, aching and desperate to be by your side. Not much further until you see those

beautiful golden dome reflecting their splendor and majesty over the city of martyrs.
The footpath gets wider, busier.  The number of Iraqis serving the zuwaar increase as well, until finally you

enter the boundary of the city.  Stick together with your group, recite dua, ask for forgiveness often, help those having trouble walking and make sure you  know the address of where you are staying in Kerbala.
The further in you get, the busier it is, head toward your lodging so you can drop your luggage and have your ghusl.

Some guidance on the manners of ziarat can be found on http://duas.org/ziaratiraq.htm.
If you have your children with you, I suggest that you do not leave them with anyone but yourself or someone else who you know to be 100% responsible.  Try and visit the shrines at off peak times, non-salat times, etc.  If you wish to pray salaat inside the shrines, expect to leave at least 2 hours before the time, as the queue to enter are very long.  Again, do not carry anything in excess and expect to delay things by carrying bags or purses filled with belongings. Phones and cameras are not allowed inside and must be kept in amanat.
Expect walking from your lodging, depending on the location, to take double the time it normally would.  Try and go in groups and hold on to one another, especially sisters. The men are very respectful and try and stay on one side, however, there are times, when it is so crowded with zuwaar that men and women end up in close proximity of one another.
Try to avoid shopping in the bazaar during busy times, I recommend doing your shopping in Najaf rather than Kerbala but if you must, then try and do this at off peak times (not right before or after salaat times).
If you get lost make sure you as a group choose a point of reference to always go back to. Either back to the lodging or a clock tower or a certain shoe stall (remember the shoe stall number).

On Arbaeen, the phone service doesn't work due to the large number of users.  Keep that in mind when trying to coordinate meeting places or times.  If you are not with a group, it is quite difficult to leave Kerbala the day of Arbaeen and probably the day after. You basically have to walk at least 10 miles out and then find a mode of transport to take you to the nearest town with available cabs.  We rode on those large yellow freight trucks, which fill up with zuwaar within minutes.

6-The Walk to Kerbala

Our flag to keep the group together

Bismillah hir Rahman nir Rahim

 'If one of our Shia goes for Imam Husain's (a.s.) Ziarat, then he will not return but all his sins will be forgiven. For every step that he or his mount takes, 1,000 virtues are written for him, 1,000 sins are forgiven and his status is elevated by a 1,000 degrees.' (Behaarul Anwar, vol 101, pg 25, tradition 26; Kamiluz Ziaraat, pg 134)

If you are planning on walking the some 80km to Kerbala to Najaf, it takes about 3 days. It is not easy but its something that every person should experience in their lifetime. If you have the opportunity to do so, then do it, you may not get the chance again. I saw many children walking as well. Most kids over 10 should have no problem. Keep them distracted, have frequent breaks, feed them often and make sure they are hydrated.

What to take
Plan on packing a comfortable shoe/trainer with good support, but don't buy a brand new pair that you haven't broken into because most likely it will break you in the form of callouses or other sores on your heel or toes.  We tend to worry too much, as even ordinary flip flops will do. I wore 5 year old worn out trainers-they did the job and I had a sense of humility in them whilst approaching Kerbala.

Only take essentials with you-(this list is if your group is not bringing your luggage to Kerbala for you)
-Spare undergarments-long sleeve t shirt/track suit bottoms/socks
-Hijab
-Towel-if you are staying at a Hussainiya
-Small bottle of soap and shampoo-depending on how long you are staying
-Photocopied Ziarat guide for Kerbala-(books can be heavy)
-Chapstick
-Small med kit (I took a few of everything and put in zip lock bag)
-Spare glasses or contacts
-Small roll of toilet paper
-Spare sheet (if you want to use in the tents that you stay at on the way)
-Phone charger and adapter

If your group is bringing your luggage then you need even less- use a backpack or sports sac so your hands are free
1) light book of dua
2)gloves/hat/scarf/shawl
3)socks
4)phone charger/adapter
5)small ziplock of any meds you need
6)chap stick
7)undergarments

We bought a flag in Najaf and made a make shift pole  to keep our group together. If you are travelling with a proper group they will have these.

What to Expect

We tend to panic about everything before we get there- will there be water? what will I do if I get tired? what if my feet hurt?, etc.
Be reassured that you will be experience such selfless generosity by the Iraqi people, including little children and the elderly, that your perception of humanity will indefinitely alter.

There were plastic chairs lined the walking route in case you needed a rest, tents set up, if you wanted to pray, sleep or eat. Whatever you needed at the time, seemed to telepathically appear before you like you were on a road of blessings and dua. Hot sugary Iraqi tea, containers of waters, biscuits, a hot meal of rice and dhaal and even a swig of perfumed oil.

My 13 yr old daughter waited
for 30 mins for those chips to
cook- some of the servers saw her
and brought it straight to her out
of all the crowd. May Allah(swt)
bless them.

Initially, you may worry, what if I get sick (which you may), what if the glasses are not clean, etc. I can only tell you this, people are doing this for the love of Imam Husayn(as) and you are walking for the same reason.  This is a selfless love that is rare in this world, let go of any fear you harbor and accept what is being graciously provided with a reciprocal love.

Massage station

When your feet get blistered and calloused there were medical stations ready to
assist. When your back and legs were aching there were massage stations set up willing to aid you in your discomfort.  Such beauty is the love of Imam al Husayn (as).

If you really are having difficulty and need to stop walking you can catch a van to Kerbala.

Most people walk between Fajr and Maghrib, we mainly walked throughout the night as we found it less crowded and easier to stick together.

Tents- Mawakib
They are set up everywhere, usually a tent with blankets and pillows.  If you are travelling with a group they most likely have specific camps to stop at.

Toilets
I found only Asian toilets but supposedly there are Western ones installed at specific poles.
The link for a listing of the poles:  http://www.duas.org/walkoffree.htm#List_westernwc

Excellent Resource Site: http://www.duas.org/walkoffree.htm- 

Najaf to Kerbala Walking Guide Summary Total Distance 80 Km Total Number of Poles 1452 Poles Distance Between Each Poles 50 meters [20 Poles = 1 Km] Approx. Walking Time Required 20 to 25 hours Estimated Time to Reach the Destination 2-3 Days Preferred Start Time 17th Safar  - After Fajr – 6:45 AM Expected Completion Time (InshaAllah) 19th Safar – Dhuhr – 12 PM Who Can Do This? Anyone (Male/Female/Families) Also at 15 shaban , Arafat, Ashura
Directions: Take an Exit from Imam Ali (AS) Haram from Bab-e-Tousi (Opposite to Bab-e-Qibla) and start walking straight on Shahra-e-Tousi - After about 500 meters, Wadi-us-Salam Cemetry will start - Keep walking straight and you will eventually get to the Highway, turn left, where hundreds of thousands of people will be walking towards Karbala – Join them and you will reach Haram of Hazrat Abbas (A.S) after about 75 Km. at Pole # 1452. Landmarks (Poles):
Poles Starts After	10 Km.
Pole # 1	Ministry Office on Left side of the Road
Pole # 345	Concrete Walls - Temporary Checkposts
Pole # 578	City of Haidariya - Haidariya Hospital
Pole # 647	Proper Permanent Washrooms
Pole # 960	Large Checkposts
Pole # 1183	Checkpost
Pole # 1237	Imam Ali (AS) City - Washrooms, Mosque, Rest Area etc.
Pole # 1252	Ministry of Import/Export - Office
Pole # 1285	Checking Checkpost - Entrance of Karbala
Pole # 1294	[Optional] Turn Right - Shortcut – After about 4 Km - Poles will again start from 1404 (Most People Do Take this Shortcut)
Pole # 1404	First Sight to Rosa e Hazrat Abbas (A.S) - People who Have Turn Right at 1294 will Join here (Note: Remove your Shoes in Respect to Haram)
Pole # 1452	End of Poles
50 Meters	Bab-e-Qibla - Rosa-e-Hazrat Abbas (A.S)

1: Mid-Life Crisis

Bismillah hir Rahman nir Raheem

“And We have enjoined on man doing of good to his parents; with trouble did his mother bear him and with trouble did she bring him forth; and the bearing of him and the weaning of him was thirty months; until when he attains his maturity and reaches forty years, he says: My Lord! grant me that I may give thanks for Thy favor which Thou hast bestowed on me and on my parents, and that I may do good which pleases Thee and do good to me in respect of my offspring; surely I turn to Thee, and 

surely I am of those who submit.” (Suratul Ahqaf, verse 15)

Mid-life crisis-that's what its called when folks can no longer comfortably carry their sleeping kids up the stairs, when they can't brush their hair without spotting some grey, and when they have to constantly remind themselves that they no longer belong to the under 35 age group.  Aside from these obvious physical changes, turning 40 is also when our actions, good or bad, are much harder to change, stubbornly clinging and not releasing its hold over us. Whoever you are by that point, is who you are.

Going on Ziarat for Arbaeen was my pre-mid-life crisis in a sense. An opportunity to start again and try and eliminate things I didn't like about myself, find that path towards forgiveness and repentance.   Imam Jaf'ar Sadiq(as) has said, 'If one of our Shia goes for Imam Husain's (a.s.) Ziarat, then he will not return but all his sins will be forgiven. For every step that he or his mount takes, 1,000 virtues are written for him, 1,000 sins are forgiven and his status is elevated by a 1,000 degrees.' (Behaarul Anwar, vol 101, pg 25, tradition 26; Kamiluz Ziaraat, pg 134)

My intention was to join the Spiritual Journeys group again (see Ziyarat with Kids) but I wasn't able to collect the money needed by the deadline and decided I would have to wait until next year.  I would read Ziarat Ashura almost every night with the niyyat that somehow I make it to Imam Husayn (as) this Arbaeen.  December rolled around and my prospects were close to none as Arbaeen was falling on Jan. 3, 2013 that year until we received a phone call from my husband's nephew.  He was planning on going to Iraq, via Iran, with two of my sister in laws, and their families.  At first I gawked at the idea, after all, where would I come up with all the money? Would we get the visa in time? What would I do with my other kids? How could he possibly make all the arrangements less than a month before the largest peaceful gathering in the world? That's not something you could really organize last minute.

By the pure and genuine grace of the Almighty Allah(swt), within a few days, my nephew (in-law) managed to get the Iranian visas via Dublin, made all the necessary travel arrangements of flying into Iraq from Iran, and all the necessary accommodations.  My complete travel arrangements literally didn't materialize until the week before I was to fly out.  My husband found airfare for myself and all 4 kids to London (3 of them to be looked after by another sis-in law) and then tickets from London to Iran with my oldest daughter only.  What seemed impossible was unfolding into possibility and actuality, for which I am ever grateful.

As we would be travelling in the winter this time it wouldn't be as blazing hot during the day and the nights would be significantly colder.  I also packed as light as possible this time, there would be no group to help load the bags or carry them. Essential undergarments such as long johns, turtle neck tops, track suit bottoms, fleece jacket, a couple of chadors (an Iraqi and Irani one), gloves, plenty of warm socks, trainers and of course toilet paper. Please refer to the list in the blog 'Ziarat with Kids' for a detailed list (although that trip was during the warm season).

I also packed clothes to donate, but that didn't pan out as well as I thought.  Its better to have an organization to donate those items to, rather than distribute any clothing on the street.  Medicines are good to bring to donate as well to an organization.

Having performed Ziarat in Iran and Iraq some months before, I had all the written materials I needed. I compiled the main dua, ziarat and maps I needed into a concise ziarat pack, divided in sections, according to location.  I also used sticky tabs to mark the main ziarat duas I needed so I could quickly reference them as I needed.  My sister in law actually gave us all a Ziarat in Iraq mini book, by QFatima, however, I felt it wasn't detailed enough and had the short version of all the ziaraa.

My daughter and I were excited as well as overwhelmed with the enormity of the opportunity we had been gifted with.  When you are presented with something you are not expecting the gratification as well as the gratitude is magnified.  I would also be able to concentrate without having the responsibility of having my younger children with me. This would be a journey of self reflection and new beginnings for this mid lifer.