The Holy Prophet (saws) is reported to have said, "A piece of my flesh will be buried in Khurasan. Any faithful believer who visits him will win paradise as reward recorded obligatory by Almighty Allah(swt) and will have hellfire prohibited from consuming their body." (Tuhfat al Za'ir)
Train Travel
Travelling by train from Tehran to Mashad was by far the most memorable mode of travel I have been on. Each cabin had its own flat screen tv, bunk beds with pillows and bedding, tea, and dining service. The train would also stop for salat. After eating, reading, chatting, and walking around the train, we opened out our bunks, laid the bedding and tried to sleep for the rest of the 12 hour journey. Admittedly, I found it extremely difficult to sleep that night. The elevation was effecting me, the closed chambers, lack of air circulation and my unknowing snoring cabin mates. I would still rather travel this way than by car or plane, the anticipation builds, the distance obvious. The 8th Imam was coerced to travel from the security of his own hometown of Medina a distance of 1,881.5 miles. Summoned by the royal court of Mamoon to Khorasan (Mashad) and eventually martyred on the 17th Safar 203AH after having been invited to dinner and fed poisoned grapes. Imam Redha's(as) popularity over shadowed that of Mamoon's.
Hotels/Security Checks
Once you arrive, check in to where you are staying. http://www.lonelyplanet.com/iran/northeastern-iran/mashhad/hotels- link for a variety of places in the city. I would advise to choose according to proximity of haram to fully take advantage of your time there. After having a ghusl and washing up, take only what you need to perform the ziarat, I strongly advise not carrying a purse full of random things or any extraneous bags, as they will stop you in the security queue to enter and delay your entry. Carry a passport pouch, around your neck or waist, with your money, passport, key to your room, hotel card with address, and nothing more. They did let us enter with our phones-no camera- but you may get an overly cautious guard who asks you to put your things in amanat (deposit cubicles).
Meeting Points/Zari
Be sure to pick an obvious spot to meet your whole group as the haram is huge- I got lost several times- use certain points of reference to find your way and remember the names of the gates. Meet the group you enter with (all female or male) inside the haram nearer to the actual zari. A word to the wise- having gone to Medina, Iraq and Iran, I would say Mashad proves to be the most difficult to reach the zari unscathed. In fact I lost my daughter in the sea of pilgrims and found her 30 mins later having had her chador pulled off in between all the bodies pressing forward and back. There is a family area downstairs that is not as aggressive or daunting, ask someone and they will show you the stairs, its definitely worth inquiring about with small children. You will have access to the zari from a floor below.
 |
| Zari - Downstairs Access |
You have the opportunity to eat a meal as a guest of Imam Redha(as). Be sure to go early in the morning to the Pilgrim's office (check a map or ask) with a passport for each guest (if travelling with a group- they most likely will make arrangements for this). You are allowed one meal. You can also go to Naudharat (donation) office in Nawab Safavi St and make a donation to the shrine, you get one meal ticket per $50 donation.
Museum
When you are visiting the pilgrim's office also be sure to get a ticket for the museum tour, I have missed this opportunity twice now, the first time due to time constraints and the second time due to 2 feet of snow altering our departure.
There is a beautiful gift shop in the museum with lovely calligraphy pieces.
Shopping
There is the Imam Reza bazaar, near the round about (with the sculpture of the firoza ring) outside the haram, near the Rezavi hotel. This is a long stretch of indoor shops with jewelry, rings, scarves, nuts, saffron, etc. If you speak a language other than English, I suggest you do so, to avoid getting ripped off. Sometimes they understand Urdu, if that's your native language.
No comments:
Post a Comment