Showing posts with label Iran. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Iran. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

4: Travel to Iraq

Bismillah hir Rahman nir Rahim

Travel to Iraq-
Reciting Dua at the train station
2 feet and falling
As it snowed 2 feet the day of our flight from Mashad to Tehran, all flights going out were cancelled. We had to get to Tehran before our connecting flight to Iraq and there was absolutely no option of catching a later flight as this was beyond a busy time to travel to Iraq.We quickly cut short our farewell to the grandson of Imam Husain(as) packed and made our way to the train station, in hopes of catching a 12 hour train back to Tehran before the Iran Air flight to Najaf.  A feeling of helplessness fell over us as we realized that we may be denied the invitation that once seemed secure and safe.  With my sister in law handling the negotiations, we could only recite dua and ask Allah(swt) to grace us with some kind of divine alternative to get us to Tehran. We were going to have to prove our sincerity that day, our love and desire to be near Imam Husayn(as) on Arbaeen, marking the 40th day after his martyrdom.

By the grace of Allah(swt) our dua were accepted and we were permitted to sit on the train, in the staff chambers.  My dua to the train staff who gave up their quarters for us, we also prayed for them on our ziarat in Iraq, which is all they requested of us, mashAllah.

After our 12 hour train ride back, we had to catch a cab to the airport- all of which we were running with bags in toe.  Eventually, after a few hours wait at the airport we got our boarding passes for Najaf al Ashraf airport, alhumdulillah.  When booking an airport in Iraq, choose Najaf not Baghdad, as its safer and also not as chaotic.

Visa
Your group should organize your visa for you but if travelling on your own, as we did, you have to make the arrangements before. We were told we would get our visa upon arrival. After paying an extra $100 on top we were then issued the visa as they were to be organized beforehand.

Lodging
If making your own arrangements, organize them well in advance as Arbaeen is seriously the largest gathering in the world. If you plan on winging it, you are mistaken.  We made some last minute arrangements to stay at a Husaineyia but they were quite a distance from the city center and the haram itself and we would have to take a cab every time we wished to go.  Also when you are sharing a space with other pilgrims, its hard to have any privacy or keep your luggage safe.  There was also no place to have a shower, except with a bucket and a hole. These are all minor issues, as we are all gathered together for the same reason and should be considered blessed to even have gotten this far, especially considering I wasn't expecting to make it.

 We came to agreement that we would call a family member who was studying in Najaf and ask them if we could come and stay with them, which thankfully they insisted. They live within a stones throw of the haram as well.



Tuesday, December 3, 2013

2: Ziarat in Iran

Inside the haram of Bibi-Masumah-Qum
Bismillah hir Rahman nir Rahim

We traveled to Tehran, Iran via Istanbul on Pegasus Airlines, no they don't serve any meals, unless you want to spend 12 Pounds on a veggie sub. We stayed at a family friend's house in Qum and visited Bibi Masoomeh-e-Qum's shrine.  If you haven't been, I strongly suggest finding a way to get an Iranian visa and making your way to visit her and our 8th Imam. Her shrine is incredibly peaceful and one in which you feel instantly connected. She was an incredibly spiritual, intelligent daughter of Imam Musa Khadim(as), who after losing her father, longed to be reunited with her older brother, Imam Ali Redha(as), who was summoned to Ray (Mashad), by the caliph at the time Ma'mun, and therefore had to leave their home in Medina. She traveled with some companions but was ambushed and murdered on her way. The circumstances of the time period in which Bibi Masoomeh lived, was one of the genocide of the Shi'a of Ali. Genocide being defined as "the deliberate and systematic destruction, in whole or in part, of an ethnic, racial, caste, religious, or national group". 

   In fact, all the shrines that you visit in Iran, either of the children of Imam Musa Khadim or his companions leave an everlasting scar deep inside your heart. Each shrine has its own story, of migration, refuge, and survival.  Their shrines scattered,  in the mountains, in the valleys, on the outskirts.   Thousands of years separate us but we can feel their anguish and the terror that lived through for loving the Ahlul Bayt, for having the name Ali or Hasan or Husayn.  The climate was so intense that the lovers of the Ahlul Bayt had no choice but to leave what was familiar and escape in order to save their lives and thus preserve the legacy of the Prophet (saws). And for that we are eternally grateful.

Qum- 

View from hill of Hazrath Khidr's masjid
Hazrath Khidr's(as) masjid
While you are in Qum, there is also a beautiful masjid built by Hazrath Khidr atop a hill on the outskirts of theby Hasan b. Mathleh Jamakarani, who had a dream that our 12th Imam requested him to build a mosque on that location.  There is also a well outside for your areeza (letter to Imam Zaman) if you wish.



city, which takes about an hour up and down.  Masjid al Jamkaran is also nearby to this site and was built in 393 AH,
Masjid al Jamkaran
Tehran
We then made our way back to Tehran to catch an overnight train to Mashad, I highly recommend this mode of travel, if you are travelling on your own. There are many ziarat locations on your way to Tehran, Imam Khomeni's, as well as various Imam Zadeh's in Tehran.  Its a surprisingly clean city, mashAllah, lined with beautiful playgrounds, gardens, streets, shops.  Surprising, because of all the sanctions choking the economy. 

 I was mesmerized by the snow capped jagged mountains grounded solidly in the distance while rows of white and green Iranian flags symbolically waved and flapped freely, uninhibited along the motorway. This is a country standing on its own, surviving patiently, facing and solving their own problems independently.  
We finally reached the train station and awaited to board. Final destination, Mashad.   




Monday, December 2, 2013

1: Mid-Life Crisis

Bismillah hir Rahman nir Raheem

“And We have enjoined on man doing of good to his parents; with trouble did his mother bear him and with trouble did she bring him forth; and the bearing of him and the weaning of him was thirty months; until when he attains his maturity and reaches forty years, he says: My Lord! grant me that I may give thanks for Thy favor which Thou hast bestowed on me and on my parents, and that I may do good which pleases Thee and do good to me in respect of my offspring; surely I turn to Thee, and 
surely I am of those who submit.” (Suratul Ahqaf, verse 15)

Mid-life crisis-that's what its called when folks can no longer comfortably carry their sleeping kids up the stairs, when they can't brush their hair without spotting some grey, and when they have to constantly remind themselves that they no longer belong to the under 35 age group.  Aside from these obvious physical changes, turning 40 is also when our actions, good or bad, are much harder to change, stubbornly clinging and not releasing its hold over us. Whoever you are by that point, is who you are.

Going on Ziarat for Arbaeen was my pre-mid-life crisis in a sense. An opportunity to start again and try and eliminate things I didn't like about myself, find that path towards forgiveness and repentance.   Imam Jaf'ar Sadiq(as) has said, 'If one of our Shia goes for Imam Husain's (a.s.) Ziarat, then he will not return but all his sins will be forgiven. For every step that he or his mount takes, 1,000 virtues are written for him, 1,000 sins are forgiven and his status is elevated by a 1,000 degrees.' (Behaarul Anwar, vol 101, pg 25, tradition 26; Kamiluz Ziaraat, pg 134)

My intention was to join the Spiritual Journeys group again (see Ziyarat with Kids) but I wasn't able to collect the money needed by the deadline and decided I would have to wait until next year.  I would read Ziarat Ashura almost every night with the niyyat that somehow I make it to Imam Husayn (as) this Arbaeen.  December rolled around and my prospects were close to none as Arbaeen was falling on Jan. 3, 2013 that year until we received a phone call from my husband's nephew.  He was planning on going to Iraq, via Iran, with two of my sister in laws, and their families.  At first I gawked at the idea, after all, where would I come up with all the money? Would we get the visa in time? What would I do with my other kids? How could he possibly make all the arrangements less than a month before the largest peaceful gathering in the world? That's not something you could really organize last minute.

By the pure and genuine grace of the Almighty Allah(swt), within a few days, my nephew (in-law) managed to get the Iranian visas via Dublin, made all the necessary travel arrangements of flying into Iraq from Iran, and all the necessary accommodations.  My complete travel arrangements literally didn't materialize until the week before I was to fly out.  My husband found airfare for myself and all 4 kids to London (3 of them to be looked after by another sis-in law) and then tickets from London to Iran with my oldest daughter only.  What seemed impossible was unfolding into possibility and actuality, for which I am ever grateful.

As we would be travelling in the winter this time it wouldn't be as blazing hot during the day and the nights would be significantly colder.  I also packed as light as possible this time, there would be no group to help load the bags or carry them. Essential undergarments such as long johns, turtle neck tops, track suit bottoms, fleece jacket, a couple of chadors (an Iraqi and Irani one), gloves, plenty of warm socks, trainers and of course toilet paper. Please refer to the list in the blog 'Ziarat with Kids' for a detailed list (although that trip was during the warm season).

I also packed clothes to donate, but that didn't pan out as well as I thought.  Its better to have an organization to donate those items to, rather than distribute any clothing on the street.  Medicines are good to bring to donate as well to an organization.

Having performed Ziarat in Iran and Iraq some months before, I had all the written materials I needed. I compiled the main dua, ziarat and maps I needed into a concise ziarat pack, divided in sections, according to location.  I also used sticky tabs to mark the main ziarat duas I needed so I could quickly reference them as I needed.  My sister in law actually gave us all a Ziarat in Iraq mini book, by QFatima, however, I felt it wasn't detailed enough and had the short version of all the ziaraa.

My daughter and I were excited as well as overwhelmed with the enormity of the opportunity we had been gifted with.  When you are presented with something you are not expecting the gratification as well as the gratitude is magnified.  I would also be able to concentrate without having the responsibility of having my younger children with me. This would be a journey of self reflection and new beginnings for this mid lifer.